Recipe: Venison Steak Au Poivre

A hunter’s take on a French classic.

If there’s one recipe every carnivore needs to have in their repertoire, it’s this one. Steak au poivre can trace its roots back before the turn of the 19th century as a classical French dish, brought into American mainstream cooking by none other than the great Julia Child in the 1960s. Some even credit steak au poivre with the prevalence of pepper-crusted steaks and the predecessor to Steak Diane.

With a such a lineage, it’s hard to pass up the opportunity when presented with a beautiful backstrap of a fair chase harvested Texas Hill Country Axis taken by my good friend Miguel on a hunt this past fall.

Here’s a list of what you’ll need to create this fantastic dish based on the recipe provided by Chef Albert Wutsch, with a few small changes of my own. Check out a full profile on Chef Wutsch.

Ingredients

• 2 pounds tender cut venison (Axis backstrap)
• 2 tablespoons cracked black peppercorns
• ½ cup butter
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

For The Sauce

• ½ cup brandy
• ½ cup sherry (I omitted the Sherry in mine)
• 1 tablespoon crushed green peppercorns
• 1 cup brown sauce (demi-glace can be used here or a quality beef or chicken stock if needed)
• 1 cup heavy cream

Directions

1. Cut your selection into steaks; I chose to go a 1½ to 2 inches on mine. Just keep in mind the thinner you go, the easier to overcook it’ll be. Liberally salt the meat and let it rest at least 30 minutes while you prepare the other ingredients.
2. Crush the peppercorns, reserve some for later use in the sauce, and coat the steaks generously with the remaining pepper while you heat a heavy pan on the stove top.
3. Sear the steaks in the butter, and depending on the thickness you can sear on just the top and bottom for thinner cuts or on all sides for thicker ones. If you’re not using bear or wild boar for this dish, keep a nice pink or red center so don’t overdo it. Only cook a few steaks at a time so you don’t overcrowd the pan and end up steaming the meat.
4. Once all your steaks are done, let them rest out of the way while you start the sauce. I threw in a little diced shallot and sautéed till they became translucent. Deglaze the pan with the brandy and sherry, flambé, and add green peppercorns, brown sauce, and heavy cream. Reduce the sauce volume by at least half. Taste and season accordingly.
5. Slice the steaks if needed and serve. This classic dish can easily pair with egg noodles, soft polenta, or in this instance, roasted yellow potatoes rounding out the meal alongside brussels sprouts with bacon, garlic, and a splash of red wine vinegar with a touch of brown sugar.

Possible Side Dish Pairings

• egg noodles
• soft polenta
• roasted yellow potatoes
• brussels sprouts with bacon
• garlic
• red wine vinegar
• brown sugar

I chose to pair this with a French Chateauneuf du Pape or a citrusy IPA such as Axis IPA from Texas brewer Real Ale Brewing for those who don’t care for the fruit of the vine.

Try out this simple classic, and let us know how you like it.

Editor’s Note: This article originally appeared in Carnivore Magazine Issue 3.